The tired stereotype of cyclists is that they all wear tight-fitting Lycra – but that is unnecessary if it doesn’t suit your riding style. Plenty of fabrics offer the same benefits or may even be better when cut appropriately or the different cycling clothes. Your primary considerations when buying begin with the seasonal conditions, the intensity of your exercise and how much airflow goes in and out of the garment. If you want to check out the best cycling clothes Cycling Electric has a buyers guide for that.
Simon Richardson of Scotland’s Endura label explains: ‘The critical point is to build a technical “system” with your clothing, helping you stay warm and dry in various conditions and effort levels.
‘Breathable, wicking fabrics move moisture away from the skin to help temperature regulation in warm and cold weather, but sticking a cotton tee or sweatshirt between a technical base layer and a highly breathable waterproof jacket will stop the system from working.’
It may sound counterintuitive, but mixing different cycling clothes when you are cold is not the best option and to throw on layer upon layer because you’re cold will then trap in moisture and sweat; then, when the body’s core temperature cools as you reduce exertion, this could make you feel a lot chillier. The objective is to stay dry and allow sweat to disperse steadily, thus maintaining a steady temperature.
‘Here in the UK, we experience many different weather conditions, and building knowledge is necessary to get it right. Still, an excellent way to start is not to be shy in asking for advice,’ says Richardson. ‘Make sure you get this from people like you or speak to many riders.’ Therefore, the staff at your local bike shop are far better placed to answer your specific requirements than somebody on a website’s live chat who may be less able to factor in all considerations.
‘As you ride more and try different combinations, you need to think about the precise weather conditions and effort levels when you’ve had good and bad experiences to learn what works best for you,’ says Richardson, adding that it is crucial to balance function with fashion on all sportswear.
‘Don’t go style over substance. Yes, you need to love the look of your kit, but functionality is the first consideration of technical cycle clothing, which is why we work hard to combine the two.
‘Identify the kit and advice that matches your riding in terms of type of bike, terrain, ride length and frequency. Don’t get lured into forum chat on niche areas of the sport from people who may have firm opinions unless you are looking for that specific usage.’
Fabrics: Technology, materials and environmental impact
Gore-Tex is one of the most popular technical fabrics among those who spend a lot of time outdoors and have found their way in to many different cycling clothes – you’ve probably got at least one friend who swears by it. US manufacturing company WL Gore was the first to revolutionise the outerwear industry with waterproof and breathable fabrics, a holy grail in clothing.
Time and technology have moved on since Gore began its journey more than 40 years ago, and other fabric giants now have proprietary technologies. For example, Polartec’s waterproof material is often seen on the spec sheet of many of the outdoor industry’s big labels, including Santini, Rapha, DHB, Sportful, PedALED, Specialized and Fox.
Tomas Carrara, Polartec’s international product manager, says that while the technical features in clothing may feel like a jumble of jargon, just a few fundamental principles ensure comfort during exercise. ‘Breathability, weather protection, and stretch are the key things. With cycling revving your body temperature in no time, breathability is a crucial attribute to look for in your clothing. There’s no point in having waterproof clothing if you get wet inside through sweat.
‘It is possible to have breathable, waterproof clothing; the more you spend, the better the technology. Anyone can make something waterproof – a plastic bag is waterproof – but balancing breathability with waterproof protection is a fine art, which is reflected in the price. You’ll find stretch fabrics in around 99% of cycle clothing. Stretch recovery – where your dress doesn’t get baggy in the high-strain areas – is a plus point. Many brands use a combination of fabrics strategically placed to give the consumer the best of both worlds. This ergonomic design means that your clothing works for you in all the right places.’
You can use trusted trademarks like Gore-Tex and Polartec as a benchmark for buying quality gear across a range of different cycling clothes, but there’s more to it than branding. Naturally sourced materials can be as good as artificial, if not better than lab-adjusted materials. After all, if it’s good enough to keep many of nature’s wonderful creatures warm or waterproof, it’s good enough for us humans, right?
Mark Almond, global marketing director at weatherproofing specialist DexShell, says: ‘Bamboo-based materials are trendy for their anti-bacterial and breathable nature, while Merino wool is well recognised as a top-quality fabric for all kinds of cycle clothing.
‘This is because it keeps you cool when your body runs warm and warm when the temperature turns cooler. With DexShell, we have several technologies that are unique to the brand or add to the fabric’s qualities. For example, the Porelle membrane used in our clothing is fully waterproof yet completely breathable. This UK-made membrane also offers various other advantages beyond weatherproofing and breathability. For example, insects cannot bite through it, so summer riding should be slightly less itchy.’
You will also hear many outdoor enthusiasts swear by Merino wool. This fibre, which comes from a particular breed of sheep, has naturally antimicrobial properties that help it resist foul odours settling. You can wear garments longer between washes (which should be done excellent and without fabric softeners).
Finally, it’s worth mentioning that Merino is a luxuriously soft fibre and perfect for year-round wear next to the skin.
Look after the planet
Many fabrics, and waterproof ones in particular, have traditionally contained substances called perfluorinated compounds (PFCs). Many manufacturers are not using these across different cycling clothes because they do not biodegrade quickly. That is a desirable quality in weatherproofing, but not so for the good of the planet. Many firms are in the ‘phase out’ stage, but not all have found a suitable alternative.
‘For that reason, many brands are now encouraging a circular economy whereby we recycle, reuse and resell old garments that still have life in them. This option may be worth researching for those who desire a low-impact footprint. As a broader point, the global clothing industry is among the most polluting in the world, responsible for more significant carbon emissions than shipping and flying combined. It is, therefore, worth buying once and buying right,’ explains Ian Young of Endura.
‘Good-quality apparel doesn’t come cheap, but spending more on a trusted brand will ensure the kit is better – fit and function – and, crucially, lasts longer. Compared with outdoor and snow sports, there can still be a bit of a reluctance to spend on different cycling clothes. Still, we’re seeing a significant shift with consumers gaining a better understanding of how good-quality clothing can improve the experience and last longer, making it more environmentally friendly.’
‘Another thing to look out for when you want to be sure the manufacturer has limited its environmental impact is an emblem handed only to sustainably sourced fabric makers across a range of different cycling clothes. Always look for the Oeko-Tex and Bluesign logos,’ says Polartec’s Carrara. ‘These independent institutions verify that the fabrics and chemicals used in that garment have passed stringent tests and assure personal safety. It’s essential to consider clothing you will wear next to your skin, like a bib. You last want a prohibited substance sitting close to your skin. Garments are made worldwide these days, so certification is a good way of checking that what you have is safe to use.’
Reading jargon-filled spec sheets can be confusing, especially when – as is often the case – the long list of features comes without any helpful explanation. Moreover, no two people have quite the exact requirements from the active kit: some of us suffer disproportionately from cold extremities, while others insist they ‘run hot’.
DexShell’s Mark Almond says, ‘As with all purchases, it is always worth weighing up the product’s value to you as opposed to just looking at the price. If, for example, you suffer from cold extremities, you may decide that investing in high-quality socks and gloves is a priority. You may be prepared to pay slightly more for something that resolves that problem.
‘It is also worth considering the amount of use any particular item will have – it makes little sense investing in a heavyweight jacket if you are predominantly a warm-weather rider. In other words, what represents value to one person may not be to the next. All our needs and priorities are different.’
To help you when browsing the clothing rails, here are a few design notes that you may overlook at first but that can make a big difference to your overall experience.
Dipped tail
The dipped tail is a standard feature on upper-body garments, and it’s an essential design trait for different cycling clothes for three reasons: it will help prevent you from getting too much trail spray on your backside and saddle; it will help keep some warmth in due to the additional coverage; and finally, when you lean forwards over the bars, the extra material will compensate for your movement, where a typical piece of clothing would leave a swathe of skin exposed to the elements.
Reflectivity
Reflective detailing on a garment is either glaringly obvious, hidden in plain sight or subtle. Many modern reflective cycling clothes on the rails are designed to be reflective only when light is beamed on their surface, often reverting to a more matte finish under normal daylight – perfect if you’re seeking a balance of fashion and function.
It should be said that wearing reflective or luminous clothing while cycling is not compulsory. In an ideal world, we would have safe lanes away from traffic, but at present, that’s a pipe dream, so carrying some reflective clothing to complement your lighting is never a bad idea.
Elastic or Velcro cuff
Many garments factor in heat retention or release in several ways, but a pivotal area to inspect is the cuffs of jackets and trousers. High-quality garments will typically have some feature to seal the warm air or allow you choice.
An advantage of the adjustable cuff is that you can easily pinch the fabric around your cycling gloves, creating a warm, rainproof seal.
Hidden pockets
This isn’t so much a technical feature as a security benefit. Many cycle clothing makers are incredibly clever with their positioning of hidden pockets, and very often, they will come with the ability to tuck in or hide the zip, giving you a safe place to stash funds for your mid-ride cake. Check the lining inside, too, because sometimes there are inside breast pockets not seen at first glance. Semi-rigid visors, hood pull cords and helmet compatibility
The hood of an upper-body garment is something far too many clothing makers get spectacularly wrong, partly because it is often an afterthought to the body panelling. What could indicate the designer has thought about the hood is if it can be stashed inside a hidden compartment near the neck.
Likewise, if the visor extends and has a slighter, firmer feel than the rest of the hood, that can indicate the jacket will be good at rerouting raindrops away from your field of vision.
As with the cuffs, a tailored fit can be desirable at the hood. Some adjustability is preferable, but the greater the level of tailoring at the hood, the better-quality garment you have in your hands. Some will allow room for a cycle helmet, but be wary that too much hood can also act like a sail, holding you back, so look out for drawstrings or internal wiring as signs that this consideration has been factored in
If your primary concern is keeping warmth in, look for a zip that runs higher than usual and a neck closure that fits snugly right up to your chin. Premium garments will have additional tailoring work in this area so the material around the neck sits comfortably but flush.
Taped or welded seams
It sounds like somebody took a blowtorch to your waterproof clothing, right? Well, not quite, but attaching two pieces with an impenetrable joint is similar.
Welded or taped seams are designed to prevent moisture from seeping through the tiny holes where stitching might be found, thus enabling the garment to claim to be waterproof. Function aside, the smooth finish is a rather attractive premium feel feature.
Venting
Features that allow venting are typically found on the underarm or the rear of the hood – prominent places but out of sight. Because hot air rises, letting it escape through an area that will otherwise be covered makes sense. You’re far more likely to find venting on waterproofs where achieving breathability in the fabric is a lofty and expensive goal.
Achieving breathability and waterproofing is possible with incredibly specialised fabrics, but that means paying a premium and researching to ensure the claims are the real deal so a vented garment can save you money and time.
Indicators of quality
When you get into the details, subtle indicators immediately tell you if even the smallest corners have been cut to save money on a garment’s spec. Some are important. Some are just preferences. A classic is the pull cords, in particular the ends. Are they sealed, or is a frayed end poking out? You probably don’t want your garment to look worn out before its time, so that is a tell-tale sign.
You might also want to inspect the stitching, particularly important in areas with anticipated multi-directional movement. The last thing you want is for stitching to break, allowing a small hole to develop to let water in where you might be in and out of the saddle. That typically ends with a long and embarrassing ride home, so if weather protection is paramount, don’t neglect to include double- or even triple-stitching or welded seams when inspecting signs of quality.
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